Fundu Lagoon

A barefoot hideaway on Zanzibar’s quieter sister island

There are beach retreats, and then there are places that feel like a little discovery. Fundu Lagoon, tucked away on the south-west coast of Pemba Island, is firmly in the latter category. Reached by boat and a short hop from Zanzibar, this wonderfully secluded lodge sits where tropical forest meets a mangrove-fringed beach, with the Indian Ocean stretching out in every shade of blue. Pemba is a world away from the busier beaches of Zanzibar, and Fundu captures its wonderfully unhurried spirit.

We love Fundu for its wonderfully relaxed approach to luxury. Thatched, tented rooms and suites nestle into the hillside and along the shore, with private decks, beautiful sea views and a feeling of being immersed in nature. Superior suites have their own plunge pools, while the infinity pool, perched above the treetops, is a particularly lovely spot for a lazy afternoon. There is no need for anything too polished or pretentious here; the charm lies in the setting, the thoughtful details and the warm, genuine hospitality.

For those who find sitting still for an entire holiday a little ambitious, Fundu has plenty to tempt you into the water. Pemba is renowned for its exceptional diving, and the lodge’s own PADI dive centre opens up a remarkable underwater world of coral gardens, colourful reef fish, turtles and larger marine life. Nearby Misali Island is a favourite for snorkelling, while kayaking through the mangroves, sailing on a traditional dhow at sunset or simply wandering along the beach offer equally memorable ways to spend the day.

The open-sided restaurant serves a delicious mix of Swahili and international cuisine, with the ocean never far from view. And when the sun begins to set, the jetty bar is a particularly special place to settle in with a drink.

Fundu is one of those places we particularly love at safari&beach: somewhere with a genuine sense of place, a little adventure, and a wonderfully personal feel. It is an exceptional way to finish a Tanzanian safari, but equally rewarding as a destination in its own right. For couples, honeymooners and travellers who value privacy, authenticity and a beach experience beyond the obvious, Pemba is a rather lovely secret to discover.

Our tip: Allow at least four nights here. Once you have arrived, you may find it rather difficult to leave.